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Ametech.


john

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Hi john, yes in previous cars & yes it does work. Smoother idle burns less oil and highers the compression. I normally throw a can into my diesel car every oil change. Ive also used it on a audi s3, st24 and a gt-tdi with great results. Its after about a 1000k miles you can feel the benefit.

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Thanks gaffer but amatech do make some fantastic claims of the good it does(maybe on worn out engines that are on their last legs so nothing to loose if amatech is used) and it can even help with piston slap but as you say a good oil does not need addatives and i suppose the only cure for piston slap is a rebuild.

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Thanks gaffer but amatech do make some fantastic claims of the good it does(maybe on worn out engines that are on their last legs so nothing to loose if amatech is used) and it can even help with piston slap but as you say a good oil does not need addatives and i suppose the only cure for piston slap is a rebuild.

Hi,

very true..............

Kev

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Hi,

I knew I had thie following on my computer somewhere, just needed finding so here it is......................

Unless you’re Amish, you’ve no doubt heard somebody somewhere, extolling the benefits of some magic engine additive that reduces engine wear. However, most of them are about as effective as Dr. BillyBob’s Miracle Snake Oil. Now that’s not to say that all additives are hogwash, because some of them do work. But what makes them work can sometimes do more harm to your engine than good. Case in point: Chlorinated Paraffins.

A common component of many additives is chlorinated paraffin. These chlorinated hydrocarbons are created by adding chlorine to a paraffin obtained through petroleum distillation, which results in hydrochloric acid. Once the acid is removed, stabilizers are added, and the product can be used as a friction reducer in an additive.

As the oil heats up, the chlorine reacts with the metal, creating a metal chloride film on the surface. This obviously covers those ‘ridges and valleys’, reducing friction between the moving parts. But once the chlorine has bonded to the metal, the hydrocarbons turn into sludge, and the excess chlorine can react with trace soluble metals in the oil, creating hydrochloric acid once again. This chlorinated paraffin depletes the alkaline in the oil, causing the oil to break down much faster than it should. Chlorine also eats away at rubber, neoprene and cork, which are the main components of engine seals.

Besides reducing the service life of your motor oil, and cracking or hardening the rear main seal, valve stem seals, and other critical engine seals, that hydrochloric acid can damage ferrous metals and aluminum alloys, turning them an ugly yellow color. Chlorinated paraffins don’t dissolve in water either, turning the used motor containing them into hazardous waste. All in all, chlorinated paraffin should be avoided at all costs.

This was sent to me by a very well known specialist who stripped a 22,000 mile 2.5 Subaru engine down and was shocked as to the wear and the colour of the inside of the engine and the fact that all the rubber seals were cracked and brittle like an engine thats done 100 K + Miles, a few questions to the owner and it turned out his dad had advised the use of oil additives every oil change just like he did in his moggy thou..........

Cheers

Kev

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